Design Features - First Year Critique

Construction Timetable 

• Basic outline of hull and rig  - December  2002
• Contract and detailed construction preliminaries - January 2003
• Hull and Deck at Schooner Creek for fairing and inspection April 2003
• Joseph & Schooner Creek team begin joining hull and deck, and fabricating structural interior September 2003
• Sea Trials September 2004
• Delivery to North Carolina by truck April 2005

Design Features

• Main Cabin
  • Settee design
    • The lea cloths and cushions are fine for sleeping and sitting at the table, but the cushions still need to be refined for lounging around for talking or reading
    • The reading lights are well placed.
    • The fans were adequate in warm weather, but louder than I would have liked
  • integral water tanks with screw-in deck plates
    • These have proved quite convenient.  It is easy to see in to check the water level during use and while filling.  They allow me to reach in and scrub the tank clean annually.  They have not leaked at all.
  • Shelf over settee.
    • These shelves are the most convenient storage.  With the addition of "lee cloths" across the fronts they were quite secure.  The attachment webs need to have some shock cord because a couple of times in rough seas someone leaned on one and pulled the strap loose.
  • Keel well in the center of the cabin
    • The lifting keel has been fantastic, allowing us to poke around in areas we would be afraid of in a fixed keel boat.  We have run aground several times, and getting off was a one or two minute affair -- roll in the jib, crank the keel up a couple of inches and back off.
    • On the other hand it certainly makes it difficult for 4 or more people to sit around comfortably and talk in the salon.  Better cushion designs will mitigate that somewhat.
    • It's advantage is that the port settee has some privacy and shielding from the lights from the electronics and computer.  Particularly helpful on passages.
• Galley 
  • Storage under, outboard, and above the counter and stove with elastic net fronts.
    • Storage in the galley has been excessive.  Provisioning for 4 for a week still left us with half full and unused cabinets and shelves.  The net fronts worked very well allowing for easy access and secure storage.  The outboard recessed shelf worked perfectly for frequently used items.
  • Deep sink on centerline with electric pump for salt water and foot pumps for hot and cold fresh water.  Flexible sprayers used for faucets
    • The foot pumps work well together, as you can have a foot on each pump and get a continuous stream of water.  This takes some coordination and balance, and possibly could be redesigned to make it easier.  The problem with this setup is the difficulty in cleaning around the foot pumps.
    • The sprayers on hoses for faucets work well, but need to be cleaned monthly to keep little sprays from squirting off to the side.
  • Two burner stove with oven
    • The stove had met our needs.  Only once did we need a third burner.  The radiant broiler toasts bread in a flash.  Pots stay put in the worst conditions we had while gimbaling.
    •  
  • R-50 vacu-panels for refrigerator box.  Removable lid with cutting board surface.  Front opening freezer below refrigerator.  Sealed spillover cooling for refrigerator. 
    • The refrigerator is working very well.  It uses 3 amps when on, but spends much of its time off.  There are however several problems that need to be addressed:
    • When it is hot and foggy the sides sweat, especially, as you might imagine, the walls of the freezer.  The problem is compounded when something is in the cabinets or against the freezer wall.  The problem is such that cups of water will accumulate in the port settee locker.
      • The solution that I will attempt is to seal the lockers and use them for storing drinks and other canned goods.  I believe it will keep them cool, and the sweating should be minimal because the compartments are not open the the moisture. 
    • The coolant runs to the compressor also sweat in warm humid conditions.  I believe this is a problem I will just have to live with, because the solution is to install them in PVC pipe and catch the moisture.
    • I think that this condensation problem will be a continuing challenge.
• Thru hull locations
  • Raw water intake
    • The intake, located just aft of the motor has been nearly trouble free.  There may have been some bubbles that slowed the genset pump, but this has not been confirmed.  The only "problem" was that a long thin fish swam up the intake and died in the strainer.  Needless to say, it didn't smell good.
  • transducer
    • It is a nuisance to empty the storage area to clean the speed transducer, but it is easy to reach and clean up.
    • The depth transducer sometimes malfunctions when pounding to windward presumably because of air under the boat.  When things settle down it begins to work again.
  •  Drains (all are above the waterline except the galley sink drain)
    • Forward cabin drain needs to be kept closed when pounding to windward.  In the worst conditions some water has come out of the sink.
    • The head drain can stay open in some really nasty conditions, but it too should be closed when healed to starboard and pounding.
    • The galley sink drain has never needed to be closed.
    • The pump-out drain has not caused a problem, except the anti-siphon loop after the pump never drains, and could potentially leak.
• Fuel
  • Prestissimo carries fuel in her keel, fuel tank, and jerricans .
  • The keel tank holds 35gal, however because of its design only 30gal can be pumped out.  To remove the fuel the keel needs to be down, and the fuel coupling is accessible via the port in the keel well.  An electric fuel pump is attached to the coupling, and the fuel can be pumped to the jerricans or fuel tank at the rate of about 1gal/minute.
  • The fuel tank holds 12 gal, and the guage is very accurate when the boat is level.
  • There is enclosed vented storage for 4 jerricans.  Currently two are diesel, one is gasoline, and one is water.  The 3 gal outboard tank, and the outboard motor also fit in the storage area.
    • Heavy use of the outboard as a tender consumes about a gallon per week, but if the outboard was used to move Prestissimo for any distance, then the extra 5 gallons would be important.
• Water 
  • The two 25 gal. integral tanks each last about a week for two people taking daily showers and being moderately conservative.  With casual use one tank served 3 for 3 days onboard continuously. 
  • The tanks are filled from large ports in the seat of the settees.  These ports make seeing the water level easy, and allow the entire tank to be reached and scrubbed, or aired out and dried.
  • The plumbing is prepared for two 25gal flexible tanks, one under the forward bunk, and one under the quarterberth.  These have not proved necessary at this time.  The raw water intake is sized to handle a water maker (as well as air conditioning cooling water), so the extra tanks may never be necessary.
• Head
  • AirHead Toilet
    • The AirHead toilet is a composting marine toilet that separates the solids from the liquids.  It requires that the toilet be either level, or sloped forward in order to properly drain the liquids and prevent them from mixing with the solids.
    • I mounted the toilet on a hinged platform so you can tilt it forward and lock it in place with two wing nuts.  This allows for the use of the toilet with up to 20 degrees of heal.
    • I drain the liquids into a 15gal holding tank.  This tank was initially vented in the cabin side.  This proved unacceptable due the frequency that the odor was in the cockpit.  The vent was subsequently moved to the upper part of the radar support pole, and the problem is  solved.
    • I have two solids holding tanks.  When the one in use is full I move it into the lazaret so it can decompose while the other tank is in use.   This has worked quite well, and there has been no odor problems in the lazaret.  
    • Twice in this first year of use some solids or toilet paper have clogged the liquid pipe, and needed to be cleaned out.  It is a relatively simple procedure to remove the flexible hose from the AirHead, and use my 12v mini shop-vac to clean it out.
    • It is important to add peat moss from time to time to keep the mixture friable so that can decompose aerobically and not get sticky and go anaerobic.
    • Procedure for using the AirHead Toilet
      • For liquids:  Make sure the toilet is level or tipped forward.  You can see the level on the lid, and adjust the slope with the two wing nuts on the sliding bar behind the toilet.  Then,  just use it like a normal toilet.  Make sure the valve to the liquid tank is open.  Listen for the tinkle of liquid into the tank.  If you don't hear it, it may indicate that the hose is plugged, the tank is full, or the valve is shut.
      • For solids: Men, open the trapdoor to the solids tank with the lever on your right, use the toilet, deposit toilet paper through the trapdoor, close the trapdoor.
        Women, put a coffee filter over the trapdoor, then use the toilet.  When you are done, open the trapdoor and everything on the filter should drop down into the solids tank.  Toilet paper goes in as well.  Tampons should go into the trash.
      • After finishing, close the trapdoor and the lid.  Then crank the crank a few turns to mix it up.
      • If the toilet is getting regular daily use the handle may become difficult to turn after a few days.  It may be that the mixture has become too moist and sticky, so a handful of peat moss will absorb the moisture and make the mixture friable again.
  • liquid waste tank
    • The tank was designed so it would drain thoroughly and not back up in rough weather.  It has met those objectives so far even when 3/4 full in rough seas.  It can be pumped out by hand or emptied using pump-out services.  There is a 6" transparent clean-out port that can be used to view the liquid level or add rinse water during pump-out.  Alternately, the rinse water can be added from the deck fitting.
    • The through-hull fitting is located in the wet locker
  • Recirculating shower
    • This feature has worked out beautifully, though it has taken a while to figure out the easiest way to use it, which, not surprisingly, was not quite how it was planned..
    • Procedure for using the recirculating shower.
      • If you want hot water, turn on the hot water breaker and "System Heat" switch.  Wait 10 minutes.
      • Assuming the shower was used properly the last time, you will be starting out with empty plumbing and a dry shower sump.
      • Turn on the faucet pump and open the valve to fill up the shower sump.
      • Remove the hose from the shower fixture and turn on the "Shower" pump.  The water will circulate and get warm in a few seconds.
      • Use the yellow knob to adjust the temperature -- clockwise is cooler.
      • Plug the hose back into the shower fixture and enjoy. 
      • Soap up and rinse off, then unplug the shower hose and direct it's flow into the sink, to drain out the dirty water.
      • When the sump is empty, add fresh water.  As soon as the water from the shower hose runs clean (about 6 seconds) plug it back into the shower head and enjoy a clean rinse as long as you like.
      • When you are done, direct the water to the sink until it runs dry.  Then open the red/white valve at the sump to empty the water remaining in the recirculating plumbing.
    • The through hull fitting for the sink/shower is located under the sink
  • Wringer mounted on the bulkhead
    • It earned it's keep when the forward cabin was soaked, but for just a few items it is easier to just wring them out.  It doesn't get stuff any dryer than wringing it out, but if you have to do big things, or lots of laundry, then it is worth it.
    • The foam mattress in the forward cabin is in 8" strips, and they could go through the wringer, which made it possible to rinse the salt water out of them.
• Forward Cabin
  • Vents to anchor locker
    • These vents are excellent.  They can be left open with the anchor locker in vent mode in the worst rain and still allow a nice breeze through the cabin.  They should be closed when sailing!
    • We left them open with the anchor locker in vent setting  while sailing.  It got rough and waves started to break over the bow.  The whole forward cabin was drenched, all the bedding, the storage under the bed, everything on the side shelves, and two shelves of clothes.
  • The counter and sink have proven useful, especially when there are other people needing to use the head in the evening.
  • Mast collar
    • I made a mast collar out of stretchy vinyl, and stuck it in place with dum-dum.  Then I put some tape over it, and covered it with an attractive UV proof collar.  It has kept all the water out, even waves over the coach roof.
    • I have a thin interior collar inside the cabin, so that if any water does get through, it will run down the mast, and not drip onto the counter and possibly get through the seal into the battery compartment.
  • There is plenty of shelf space for two people.  One of the shelves is used for extra boat stuff, like the harnesses and flairs and stuff like that.
  • The under bunk storage is excessive.  I haven't installed the water tank, but there would be room for that, and plenty more to spare.  I kept my sewing machine and lots of supplies in it, and there was still plenty of room.
• Aft Cabin
  • Bunk
    • The bunk is comfortable for two people.  The 3" thick medium density EZ-Dri foam was too firm.  I drilled 3/4" holes in it and pulled out the plugs, and it is much more comfortable, and should dry even faster if it ever gets wet.
    • The ventilation isn't as good as forward, or the starboard settee, but with the fan on and port open it is OK.  It also receives warmth from the engine room wall and the motor compartment.  
    • Underway it is in a stable area of the boat, so I haven't created the lee cloth that I designed for the center of the bunk.
    • There are two storage areas under the bunk.  The forward area is reasonably convenient, the aft area is designed for a flexible water tank, but it is not installed, and is providing useful long term storage.  Chart storage is built into the lids of the forward storage areas, but it hasn't fit the chart-books, and decreases the useable space.
    • This is the noisiest berth.  Underway noise comes from the shaft compartment underneath and the genset in the next compartment.  At anchor the waves slap underneath the lazaret if they come from the stern.
  • Shaft Compartment
    • The shaft compartment contains two thru-hulls:  
      • Intake -- the raw water intake and strainer connected to the raw water manifold which has the genset raw water pump and galley sink raw water pump as well as connections for a water maker and air-conditioning system.
      • Outflow --  sink drain.  
    • The "keel cooler" for the refrigerator which acts as the bonding ground for the 12v system and HF radio.
    • Shaft and dripless coupling

• Utility Room
  • Hot water storage
  • Valves and pumps for hot and cold water
  • Genset 
    • exhaust
    • starting battery
    • fuel lines
    • electric wires
    • air intake
    • sound shield
  • Solomon electric controllers
    • motor controller
    • Solomon power control panel 
    • Inverter / charger
  • Refrig compressor & cooling water source
• Plumbing
  • All the hoses stay flat against the hull and as close to centerline as possible this has made priming the pumps after running out of water as simple as just turning on the pumps.
    • The down side to this arrangement is that when cleaning out one of the compartments, the water and dirt is invariably under the hoses.
  • Faucet sprayers
    • These provide a reasonable way to rinse using minimal amounts of water.  They require a tempering valve to keep the spray level low, and the sprays clog up with particles about bimonthly, and then a single spray heads off in an odd direction.  Cleaning out the sprayer is a simple 3 minute procedure with the right size allen wrench.
  • Hose Bib in the head is an easy way to fill the shower or to attach a hose to wash off the deck.  It is also the easiest way to fill a bucket or pot of water.
  • The galley sink uses foot pumps for hot and cold water.  They are the easiest way to provide just the right amount of water for hand or dish washing.  It is a slow way to fill a pot of water.
  • Hot water is temperature controlled with a valve control under the sink counter.  The priming valves dramatically shorten the time and amount of water needed to get the hot water to the sprayers, but because the sprayers are so conservative with water you can still get about half soaped up before the hot water gets out of the sprayer hose.
    • Another technique to prime the hot water could be to provide a hose inlet into the cold water system, and you just spray the hot water into this hose opening until the water gets hot.  The disadvantage would be that someone could inadvertently contaminate the fresh water supply, and that it would be a slow process waiting for the hot water to arrive with the flow level set low.
    • The galley sink is so close to the hot water system that a priming valve seemed unnecessary, but in practice, because the sprayers are so efficient, you are almost always finished before the hot water arrives.
    • Where it is really important, in the shower, the hot water is hot, easily adjusted, and virtually unlimited.
  • Raw water is pumped to the galley sink, and controlled by a switch.  This has worked quite well.
  • Hydronic circulation
    • The hart of this system is the hot fluid storage tank where all the hot water systems take their heat from.  After heating up, it will stay hot for about 12 hours, and holds enough heat for about one shower.
    • This system is also used with air handlers to heat the boat in three independent zones.
  • The raw water  wash down pump in the anchor locker requires tossing an inlet hose over the side and plugging the 12v pump into a socket.  This works well, but modifications could make it more convenient.  
• Electrical System 
  • 12 volt DC
  • 144 volt DC
  • 120 volt AC
  • Data
  • Lightning Protection
  • Radio Signal
  • Bonding
• Deck & Cockpit
  • Anchoring 
    • Anchor
    • Windlass
    • Secondary Anchoring
  • Lazaret 
  • Fuel Locker
  • Radar/Utility mast
  • Tiller & Emergency tiller
  • Instrument housing
  • Keel lifting mechanism
• Engine Room